Here it is! The Trifold Wallet Tutorial!Apologies in advance for the sudden change in the print/color of the fabric--I ended up doing a different style zipper. And apologies for the poor/inconsistent lighting in the photos. I'm still trying to get the hang of photographing in my studio. Also I will warn you that the top flap doesn't lay perfectly flat like seen in the photo. It helps when you pre-iron the interfacing in one of the steps of the tutorial, but I thought I'd give you a heads up in case this is a major issue with you. Mine has flattened downed nicely, being in my purse, so it might just be a temporary thing.
MATERIALS: 8" x 12" piece of ultra firm stabilizer/interfacing (I used Pellon's Peltex 70, it's about 1/16" thick. This might be it.) From the print: a piece larger than 8" x 12" (it doesn't have to be larger than that, but you'll see why I prefer it) 8" x 4" for the small card pocket 8" x 5 1/2" for the large card pocket 8" x 6 1/2" for the money pocket 8" x 6 1/2" for the coupon/extra top pocket 8" x 6" for the checkbook pocket 8" x 4" (approximately) scrap From the solid: 8" x 8" for the top lining 8" x 4 3/4" for the bottom lining 6" x 8" for the coin pocket lining 1 8" or larger zipper 1 magnetic snap (I used the extra thin kind, 3/4" size) 1 1/2" scrap medium or heavy fusible interfacing (I used Pellon Decor Bond) 1 1/2" piece of 3/4" wide elastic 42" (or more) of 2" wide binding zipper foot usual sewing supplies: machine, scissors, thread, pins
INSTRUCTIONS: Fold both the money pocket and the large card pocket in half lengthwise and iron. Place the large card pocket on top of the money pocket, with raw edges lined up. Stitch about 1" from raw edge with the stitch length set to 3. It should look like so now. Fold and iron the small card pocket in half lengthwise. Place on top of previous pieces, lining up raw edges. Pin or mark the center. Stitch down center (4" in on either side), stopping at the fold (top) of the large card pocket and back stitching. Should look like this now! :) Now we are going to machine baste the elastic in place. Place it about 3/4" from center, folded in half. Stitch about 1/8" from raw edge. (Feel free to customize the size of your elastic based on the size of your pen. Remember to add 1/2" to the length for the seam allowance and you want the elastic to be a bit smaller than the width of your pen.) Fold and iron the check pocket in half lengthwise. With the bottom lining (the 4 3/4" x 8" piece) in front of you, place the check book pocket on top and pin. This next step is only if you are indeed using this pocket for a checkbook. If you don't use checks, you can stitch down the center and create more card pockets or leave it as is for an extra coupon/misc pocket. Stitch down about 7/8" from the side, stopping and back stitching at the fold/top of the check pocket. Repeat for the other side. Should look like this! Place the middle (card and money pockets) section lined up against the bottom of the top lining with right sides up. Then place the check book section on top of that, right sides down. Pin and stitch 1/4" along that bottom edge, back stitching over the elastic for a little extra security at that stress point. Like so. When you open it up it should like this. You can iron it nice and flat, having that seam allowance you just stitched folded down. Set that chunk aside and grab the extra/coupon pocket. Iron in half lengthwise like all the other pockets. Open back up and on the wrong side, mark the center (4" in on either side.) Now mark 1/2" from the top edge. Grab your 1 1/2" scrap of medium/heavy fusible interfacing and mark it's center as seen (not on the shiny side!) Line your square up as seen in the photo-a half an inch from the edge and centered. *Mine is a little crooked in the photo!* Iron it to set it in place. Place the (I guess you'd call it) washer from the magnetic snap on the interfacing, centering it. Mark the two lines where you will cut the slits in the next step. Do just that, cut the slits. I fold along the line and snip snip each line. Be careful not to make the slits too large! Now grab the male half of the magnetic snap. You can see how nice and thin mine are in the photo above. Push the prongs through the front of the fabric. Fold back the prongs. Fold the pocket back to it's original shape (in half length wise) and stitch a square (or circle or other shape if you feel fancy) through both layers of fabric around the magnetic snap. Now get out your ultra firm stabilizer/interfacing and mark down the center. Now 1 3/4" from the bottom edge, mark a line in the center. 4" from the bottom edge, mark a line all the way across. (This is the one fold line.) Now 3 1/2" from the top edge, mark another line all the way across. (This is the second fold line.) It's smart to iron the wallet closed like it will be later. It helps later on. Now we are going to put this zipper opening in. I cut a rectangle out like this to reduce bulk. The rectangle is located 1" in on both sides. It's 1/2" tall and 2 3/4" up from the bottom fold line you marked before. Here is where the wallet fabric changes. Hopefully it's not too confusing. With the wallet fabric piece right side up, place the interfacing on top. Now with your piece of scrap print fabric right side down, place that on top of the zipper opening. Pin in the rectangle, pinning through the two layers of fabric. Feeling through the top layer of fabric, mark out the rectangle on the back of the scrap fabric. Now you're going to pull the interfacing out (just for now--it'll go back in later) through the zipper opening. Up next is to stitch that rectangle you marked. I've found it's smart to go a smidgen outside of the rectangle--makes for a tighter/tauter opening later on. Now cut a slit down the center of the rectangle lengthwise stopping about 1/4" from both ends. Then snip to the corners as seen. Next you pull the scrap through the opening. Iron nice and neat. Now finagle the interfacing back into place by pulling the scrap piece through the zipper opening. The markings you made on the interfacing should be visible to you. Should look like this now. Flatten it all out and make it nice and neat, then pin everything in place. Now we are going to baste the zipper in place. I usually just eyeball it by placing the zipper on the table, closed with the pull on the left hand side. Place the wallet on top, so the opening goes over the zipper nicely. Make sure there is some extra room between the zipper pull and the end of the opening on the left side. There should be a a lot extra on the right side. Now pin then baste the zipper in place. Flip over and place the coin pocket lining as seen, with the long edge lined up with the bottom of the zipper tape. Now pin the lining in place. I usually feel through and pin just above the zipper teeth as well as the ends, so they don't fold up, bunch up when sewing. Next flip the whole thing over and sew along the bottom edge, starting and stopping a smidgen after and a smidgen before the ends of the opening. You can back stitch if you desire but I usually pull the top and bottom thread through to the back and tie into a knot. Now flip the wallet over and line the top edge of the pocket lining up to the top edge of the zipper tape. Next I pin like you did before: this time under the zipper teeth and again on the ends. Flip over and stitch along top edge just like the bottom. Up next, we need to stitch up the sides of the pocket. Fold back the wallet fabric and interfacing as seen. Now stitch as close as you can to the fold--it's a good idea to still use the zipper foot, so you can get really close. You want to make sure to close up the end of the zipper opening. You want to stitch straight down to the bottom of the pocket lining, where it's folded. Repeat for the other side. It should like like this now. This bit is optional but recommended for a nice clean look. Top stitch the ends of the zipper opening. (I often start where I left of the long side, pivot at the corner, go down the short end, pivot again and finish up. Finally we can trim the excess off both ends. Up next we will put the female part of the magnetic snap in. On the interfacing, where you marked the line 1 3/4" from the bottom, place the washer thingamajig centered where the two lines cross. Mark the two slits. Snip the slits, push the snap in place, through the interfacing and the washer and fold the prongs back. (The snap part should be on the right side of the wallet.) Now place the inside of the wallet (the bit with all the pockets) on top of the wallet outside. The check pocket should be at the bottom where you just put the female half of the magnetic snap in. Pin in place and baste. Trim the excess off. Finish with binding as desired. (You could completely machine stitch your binding on, or machine stitch the front then hidden stitch the back, like I did.) The finished width of your binding should be 1/2", so that your cards and what-nots all stay in their pockets. Any question, let me know! And note that this tutorial is for personal use only--please don't make the wallets to sell.